Perfumer’s words : fougère natural fragrance accord

Unlike oriental or woody fragrances, fougère natural fragrance accord only came into being very recently in the history of perfumery. Before the appearance of the first fougère fragrance, which would become the leader of this new family, the trend was more for heavy and animal scents. Indeed, during the Renaissance, opulent musk, civet and amber fragrances were popular at a time when hygiene was not always a priority. But at the beginning of the 19th century, Napoleon I established a new fashion and became a fervent lover of Eau de Cologne, fresh and energizing.

The history of so-called fougère perfumes dates back to 1882 with the creation of Fougère Royale by the Houbigant perfumery, thanks to perfumer Paul Parquet. At the end of the 19th century, the chic, almost dandy man made a point of hygiene and took care of himself. At the center of men’s care, the essential barber. This is why Fougère Royale is a real hit with men: the scents of lavender, wood and coumarin recall the sensations of cleanliness when leaving the barber.

What is perfume or the so-called “fougère” (fern) fougère natural fragrance accord?

The fougère fragrance is an olfactory family that has mainly been used for men’s fragrances. This is represented by an accord of aromatic or oriental essences.

The classic fougère accord follows a fresh top note that gives that ‘clean’ feel. Bergamot, lavender, lemon … are crisp and fresh. In the heart note, we find either pink geranium or rose and in the base or woody notes, moss, tonka bean, cistus or benzoin to finish on a soft and enveloping note.

The fougère natural fragrance accord, in addition to the traditional notes previously mentioned, are added aromatic notes with green herbs such as mint, sage, basil or thyme. In comparison with these aromatic fougère scents, oriental fougère tend more towards sensual and warm dimensions thanks to the addition of spices, woody notes (vetiver, cedar) or oriental notes with resins like benzoin or frankincense.

There are now more modern and trendy variations with more clearly flowery, marine or fruity variations that give a youthful touch to this somewhat classic accord.

These fougère natural fragrance accords, whether aromatic or oriental, can be easily created in natural perfumery because this accord was originally made up of natural essences. Like the famous Eau de Cologne. This family has evolved over time: powdery, leathery, citrus, aromatic or oriental. It has modernized over time either for legislative issues (oak moss) or to target a younger clientele. It is therefore now used for unisex or even feminine fragrances. There it is worked with notes of geranium, rose more present, citrus for a very fresh and energizing note, or softer and vanilla see milky with tonka bean.

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