There are flower scents that are impossible to extract. These are called silent flowers. These flowers, whose scent perfumes the garden or the room when in plant form, yet give no essence. To the great despair of perfumers, they cannot appreciate an absolute or an essence of lily of the valley, honeysuckle, white lily, lilac, gardenia, jacinth, syringa or even sweet peas.
Regardless of the extraction process, steam distillation or extraction with volatile solvents, nothing works. It will take the work of the perfumer to reconstitute the scent of these flowers, this is called a reconstitution and each has their own way of perceiving and restoring it.
What is a reconstruction?
A reconstitution is a mini-perfume which is made up of around ten constituents, both synthetic and natural. In natural perfumery, we will only use essences and absolutes. No isolates! And that is all the art of the natural perfumer. It will then be necessary to control the olfactory totum of the plant and the maceration of these. The master key is a great knowledge of raw materials!
Each natural perfumer can thus offer olfactory variants with a greener, fresher note, etc.
Here are some ways to restore the delicate, carefree and innocent scent of lily of the valley. In conventional perfumery, this trail can be followed and you can leave your beautiful creativity and knowledge in your essences to give it a try ….
- phenylethyl alcohol (green leaf side of the rose)
- rose essence (richness of the rose)
- hydroxycitronellal (lily of the valley green side of the rose)
- rhodinol (geranium and mint side of the rose)
- citronellol (fresh side and lemongrass of the rose)
- linalool (fresh side of the rose)
I have listed for you some molecules used in conventional perfumery to recreate the subtle scent of lily of the valley, but what about with natural raw materials? You can choose essences that are rich in the molecules mentioned above or that have a score that is close to it. For example, the essences that could be used are Chinese geranium richer in citronellol, Damascus rose, petitgrain for its green note, violet leaves abs. or litsea cubeba with its fresh green side, …