Perfumer’s words – Summer flowers

Indispensable for solar notes, frangipani and tiaré flowers captivate our senses and they are more than ever synonym of mellow holidays by the beach. Their irresistible sensual scent makes us feel seductive and incredibly feminine like most of the floral perfume family. In this first part of our series, let me introduce you to frangipani. If you thought that frangipani and tiare flowers are alike, I am going to explain you their differences…

What is the origin of the name frangipani?

The frangipani or plumeria was named in honor of the French botanist Charles Plumier (1646-1704). The common name frangipani would come from an Italian marquis, Muzio Frangipani, who had created an almond-based perfume to perfume gloves. In natural perfumery, there are absolutes of red frangipani, native to Malaysia, and of white frangipani (the best known) native to India, although this botanical genus, composed mainly of bushes and deciduous trees, has become acclimatized in Asia. It is now found in all tropical or hot countries. The different varieties of plumeria give magnificent flowers within their center the yellow color haloed by different petals in shades of yellow, pink or white. The flowers give off an intoxicating scent and even more so at night.

In Asia, the frangipani is believed to be a tree of eternal life. This magical aspect is also found in Polynesia, where it is considered to have privileged links with the spirits. Even if Polynesia is more associated with the tiare flower, thanks to the product of Monoi which is a maceration of the tiare flowers in fresh coconut oil.

In India, the frangipani flower is often referred to as the temple flower because shrubs are usually found planted next to temples in India or Bali, the flowers being used as offerings to Hindu and Buddhist deities. The frangipani flower is a sacred flower in India whose abundant flowering is called by fiery prayers like sambac jasmine, because the whiteness of the flower symbolizes the purity of the soul.

In the Pacific Islands, it is worn by women to indicate whether they are single or not. On the right ear, it means they are looking for love and if the flower is on the left, it means they are already engaged.

A bewitching sacred flower

It is a flower that has a lot of presence. It is often associated with other solar flowers and white flowers such as ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, magnolia, gardenia and tiare flower. It is present in heart notes but as soon as the fragrance soars it jumps to the nose. It is a strongly intoxicating aromatic material, like a heavier, tropical version of fresh gardenia flowers, a voluptuous fragrance that could also remind of osmanthus flowers.

In traditional medicine

In the West Indies, the bark is used as a purgative because it contains an antibiotic, while its leaves promote healing. In Africa, it has the reputation of promoting the secretion of breast milk. In Asia, its sap was used to treat warts.

Another flower from paradisiac islands brings forth sacred, solar and sensual vibes to your Summer of love…

The tiare flower, a flower with sacred origins

The tiare flower or gardenia tahitensis was once the preserve of queens and kings. We covered the floors during wedding ceremonies … floors sublimated by the delicacy and the disturbing scent of these white petals with a golden heart. In Tahiti, Polynesian legends remain alive. And the flower that represents the island is no exception. This is why the tiare flower has ten names according to the blooming of its buds. These then pass from the hands of the gods to those of men.

Native to the mountainous coasts of the South Pacific, the tiare flower has the distinction of being one of the rare cultivated flowers native to Polynesia. Tiare is a type of gardenia that grows in Tahiti, the largest island in French Polynesia in the southern Pacific Ocean. It is the soul and symbol of this island. Tahitian men and women wear these scented flowers in special ceremonies, and they are usually given to guests in Tahiti as a sign of welcome.

From the rubiaceae family, tiare grows on small shrubs, which produce a limited number of flowers each year. The tiare plant does not produce seeds or very exceptionally and therefore depends on men to reproduce. Coral lands are its favorite place. It is planted in dark soil, and we add coral fragments to its roots to help growth. The tiare Tahiti flowers all year long, but mainly from September to April, giving a yield of about 2-10 flowers per day. Fresh flowers are collected in the morning from 5am at bud stage, ready to blossom. They are then wrapped in leaves carefully to retain its freshness and fragrance for several days

Completely free from toxicity, it is the most commonly used of all Polynesian plants. In traditional medicine, the tiare flower is prepared in a variety of preparations to meet all needs; as an infusion, soaked in lukewarm water, ground with other essences or crushed with a few drops of Monoi. The Polynesians have used these strange preparations in particular to relieve earaches, migraines and mosquito bites. They also use the flower to perfume their homes by placing a few tiare flowers in the small saucer filled with water to release its delicate and sweet scent. Tiare flowers have antiseptic properties due to the richness of essential oils, as well as calming and purifying properties due to salicylic acid and derivatives salicylates. It is particularly used in sensitive skin care products, and in Monoi de Tahiti, which is suitable for all types of cosmetic formulations. Finally, the Tiare flower exhales a seductive fragrance that is a highly refined source of inspiration for perfumers.

The solar note for natural fragrances!

The tiare flower produces beautiful white flowers with an absolutely divine scent, reminiscent of jasmine. Its bewitching notes are used to create the famous solar note. It is a white floral note, creamy and indolic. The Tiare flower has a very pleasant complex spicy bouquet, mainly with honey, chocolate and cinnamon, along with green notes. The abundance of dihydro-coniferyl alcohol esters is one of the specificities of the Tiare flower. They are the ones giving it a heavy vanilla scent with floral notes.

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